Friday, June 8, 2007

This is not the Capitol Hill Prom Court

In D.C., political and policy discussions often occur at 8:30 p.m. in low-lit restaurants that serve bland but elegantly plated fusion tapas and $12 appletinis. Here the acne-cheeked high school debate team captain, the Economist-reading winner of the science fair, the four-time United States representative on the Model UN Security Council, and the tapered jeans-wearing newspaper editor suit themselves in Ann Taylor and Brooks Brothers. And they analyze, fiddling with their trademark dark-framed glasses, the staggering implications of the assistant deputy treasury secretary's decision to step down in the context of a recent amendment to a fiscal policy bill.

Sitting amidst these conversations in my Burlington Coat Factory skirt and my Target shirt, I felt exactly as I did the summer I was 11 and played on a softball team. The only thing worse than the humiliation of going up to bat (I did not make contact with the ball even once) was the abject terror of standing in the outfield in tight white pants and a too-long-and-skinny emerald green T-shirt praying the ball would never come to me. I understood my isolated function as an outfielder, I understood the main objective of the game, and I understood the rules as they might appear in a textbook. (After that summer, I promptly forgot the rules, in the way one blocks out trauma, until I married into a family of baseball fanatics.) But what I could never understand was the real-time strategy I might employ during a play. I knew that after a pop fly bounced off my glove, after I tripped as I lunged for it, after I failed to cut the angle to intercept it, and after I had finally secured the ball as the runner rounded third base, that I needed to quickly offload the ball to another player who might get the runner out. But I was never sure which player that would be; I could never anticipate the sequence of events that would follow my throw, and I could neither conceptualize the larger meaning of that moment in the game nor my role in it.

Here, during every dinner party, every high-school-style parents-are-away romp, every hike through the Margalla Hills, the conversation makes a one-way trip into the terrain of Kashmir, of Musharraf's hold on power, and on the rule of law (a phrase everyone uses here and that I will pretend to understand beyond my literal interpretation). And to these conversations, I bring the twin baggage, masked by smiling and nodding but never speaking, of cynicism and ineptitude. At one such dinner two nights ago, mid-way through one of these discussions, I managed to position myself so I could chat with one other person, a Pakistani woman who worked for a human rights NGO. After I had talked to her for a while about her youth rights and women's rights work, she asked me what I thought so far of Islamabad. And I said, candidly, that I felt somewhat frustrated that I had moved from one town that fixates on politics to another that fixates on politics.

She told me, then, that the perpetual discussions about current events had not started until recently, when Pakistan got its first non-government-run news channels. Suddenly, she said, people who had never been informed because they only had access to State-run news media were protesting, participating in current events call-in shows, discussing incessantly the fate of the country. And I realized, then, with a quick, red-faced shame, that I was dense -- even disrespectful -- to equate the role of political discussions in DC and Islamabad only because my experience of the conversations in both places is the same. That's my problem, my infacility, my deafness; it is upon me, as the Pakistanis say, to somehow convince Griff and Spencer that helping me understand what the hell is really going on is not a futile exercise. But here, in living rooms and walled backyards, these are not DC-esque sparring matches between renovated high school nerds desperate for a spot on the Capitol Hill prom court. These conversations are about what will actually happen to a people: will they retain or lose an independent media, is their country growing into a democracy or tumbling into a totalitarian dictatorship, how will they live a month from now or a year from now, what will happen to their children.

4 comments:

Unknown said...

Emily- this is so good I read it twice.
Love, sally (the unfanatic)

Emily said...

Yes, you and I are the unfanatics!

eudae said...

i had a sort of converse feeling of inspiration about political activism when i was wherever.. especially south africa or cambodia or uganda. some sort of glorification of the people 'rising up' and forming political collectives... making a difference in their nation... taking back the streets... 'rule of law' was a rallying cry everywhere (btw my theory i think that it is britain speaking, condescendingly about the uncivilized former colony whose independence it resents, and culture it still doesn't get, and whose customs do not fit into one-size-fits-all 'rational' legal framework)

there is a certain glorification of these people's problems, and it's true, we don't understand abject poverty until we see it, usually abroad... we don't understand what 'upward mobility' means, until we see it's lacuna (still trying desperately to use this word without it looking like brooks brothers on target-me)

so... my question might be... if you can, at some level, be inspired about pakistan's politics... can you be inspired by america's? aren't americans shaping their destinies too, albeit, answering smaller questions about life and death?

i honestly haven't been able to say yes yet, so i'm really asking me, by asking you ;-)

love,
the feignatic

Emily said...

These are really good points, and I don't think they're at odds at all with what I was trying, unsuccessfully, to convey.

Here's what I was attempting to say:

In DC, I find that political discussions are often not really political discussions in the way you're framing them -- rather, people are jockeying for position by one-upping each other with tedious inside-the-beltway information. These are often not conversations about ideals or values or concepts or deeper questions. These are not conversations where anything seems to be at stake. In terms of my depiction of DC, we're almost talking about two different kinds of conversations entirely.

I have a bad reaction to this aspect of DC culture (and it seems kind of singularly DC, perhaps? I have not had a similar experience anywhere else in America, thank God) -- in part because I find it tiresome and in part because I have no capacity to join in the game. (There is an element of I'm bad at this so I hate it.)

So, I brought all that baggage with me to Islamabad, and so, my own failing was that my initial, snap-reaction to political discussions here was to feel like I hadn't escaped the culture of DC.

But then I realized that actually the discussions I was listening to were not of the ilk of those in DC. At all. I had this sudden awakening to my own DC-grown prejudices and baggage, which had been so heavy that I'd been able to really hear the conversations around me. I felt really humbled and ashamed and unhappy with myself. It was one of those moments when you sort of hate yourself for the ways your self-absorption and experiences prevent you from actually hearing and seeing what's around you. Sigh.

I really didn't mean to suggest that I don't care about politics in America or here. I really do. And in fact, being here underscores how interlinked all our destinies are. I've, even since I wrote that post, come to understand what's going here a little better, such that I can at least follow what people around me are saying.

I think you're totally right about rule of law. I can't bear to utter it, still.